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What it does: Removes small imperfections like dust spots, hairs, or blemishes from your image.
How to use:
Best for: Cleaning up dust, scratches, stray hairs, small blemishes before laser engraving
What it does: Selectively lightens (dodge) or darkens (burn) areas of your image.
How to use:
Best for: Adding depth, enhancing contrast in specific areas, bringing out details that will engrave better
What it does: Copies pixels from one area to another (clone) or blends copied pixels with the destination (heal).
How to use:
Best for: Removing larger objects, duplicating patterns, fixing damaged areas, seamless repairs
What it does: Pushes and warps pixels by dragging them in any direction.
How to use:
Best for: Straightening edges, adjusting hair position, subtle shape corrections, fixing minor distortions
⚠️ Note: Use carefully - this tool can create distortion. Best for small adjustments only.
What it does: Lets you move the image around the canvas to see different areas.
How to use:
When to use: When zoomed in and you need to access different parts of the image
What it does: Returns the image to the position and zoom level it was at when you first opened ADJUSTMENTS.
How to use:
Example: Enter adjustments at 100% zoom, centered → Zoom to 300%, pan to corner → Click RESET VIEW → back to 100% zoom, centered
What it does: Automatically scales small images to fill approximately 65% of the canvas area.
How to use:
When to use: When you upload a small image (like a 200×200px cropped logo) - makes tiny images easier to see and work with
Example: Upload 200×200px image → appears tiny on screen → Click FIT TO CANVAS → scales to ~420×420px → Much easier to edit!
What it does: Changes the magnification level of your image.
How to use:
When to use: Zoom in (200-400%) to work on fine details, zoom out (50-100%) to see overall composition. Use Left Click + Spacebar + Drag to navigate large or zoomed images.
Note: Zoom doesn't change your image - only how you view it. Your export will always be at the dimensions you set in RESIZE.
Auto Adjust analyses your image and calculates optimal settings for laser engraving. Choose the profile that matches your material — the engine adapts to each image differently.
What it does: Maximum contrast and crisp edges for materials capable of resolving fine detail. The image is pushed bold and graphic with strong tonal separation.
Materials: Anodized aluminium, spraypaint-coated items, acrylic (back-engraved), painted tiles, powder-coated metals, coated tumblers, Cermark/Enduramark treated surfaces, ceramic, porcelain, glass, mirror, corian.
How it works: These materials have uniform, engineered surfaces that can hold fine detail at high DPI (500–1000). This profile clips the histogram tighter (p5–p95), pushes contrast higher, and sharpens edges for clean tonal boundaries.
Tip: Most coated materials need Invert ON so dark areas become the laser's removal zones. For glass with marking compounds, Invert is usually OFF.
What it does: Balanced adjustments that preserve smooth tonal range for materials where grain, texture, or heat spread physically limits fine detail.
Materials: Wood, leather, cork, bamboo, cardboard, paper, fabric, MDF, plywood, slate, marble, granite, stone.
How it works: Natural and organic materials respond progressively to laser energy — grain structure and heat diffusion blur fine dots. This profile uses moderate contrast with gentle clipping (p3–p97), lifts shadows slightly for better dither patterns, and applies restrained sharpening to avoid harsh edges.
Tip: Wood and leather typically don't need Invert — the laser darkens the surface naturally. For slate, combine SD with Invert ON.
What it does: Contrast Limited Adaptive Histogram Equalization — enhances local contrast across different regions of the image independently, bringing out hidden detail in shadows and highlights.
How it works: Unlike global contrast which pushes everything equally, CLAHE divides the image into small tiles and optimises each one. Detail hiding in dark areas gets revealed without blowing out bright areas.
Tip: CLAHE is applied automatically as part of HD/SD auto-adjust. The manual button lets you apply it independently for fine control. Click again to undo.
What it does: Enhances detail in textured areas like skin, fur, wood grain, and edges while leaving smooth areas like backgrounds and gradients untouched.
How it works: Unlike the Sharpen slider which applies equally everywhere, this analyses local texture and only sharpens where detail actually exists. Fine texture gets a tight sharpen, broader edges get a wider enhance, smooth areas are left clean.
Tip: Apply after CLAHE for best results. Also applied automatically as part of HD/SD auto-adjust. Click again to undo.
What it does: Flips light and dark values - white becomes black, black becomes white.
When to use:
What it does: Sets black point (darkest value) and white point (lightest value).
How to use:
Tip: If your image looks washed out, bring the handles inward.
What it does: Makes entire image lighter or darker.
Range: -100 (darker) to +100 (lighter)
Tip: Small adjustments (-20 to +20) are usually enough.
What it does: Increases or decreases difference between light and dark areas.
Range: -100 (less contrast) to +100 (more contrast)
Tip: Higher contrast helps details engrave more distinctly.
What it does: Adjusts mid-tones without affecting pure black/white.
Range: 0.2 (darker mids) to 2.2 (lighter mids)
Tip: Use gamma to bring out shadow detail (increase) or make highlights pop (decrease).
What it does: Makes edges and details crisper for cleaner engraving.
Range: 0% (no effect) to 200% (very sharp)
Recommended: 10-30% for most images. Auto Adjust applies 11%.
⚠️ Too much sharpening creates harsh edges that may engrave unevenly.
What it does: Softens the image, reduces noise and fine detail.
Range: 0 (no effect) to 50 (heavy blur)
Tip: Light smoothing (5-15) can reduce noise before dithering.
What it does: Fine-tunes how different tonal ranges are rendered - think of it like adjusting specific zones of your image independently.
Sliders (all stack together):
Common uses:
Tip: Small adjustments (±10 to ±30) usually work best. All three sliders combine for the final effect.
What it does: Converts image to pure black and white (no grays).
Controls:
Best for: Line art, logos, text, high-contrast graphic designs.
Tip: Preview in real-time to find the perfect threshold point. Usually 100-150 for most images.
⚠️ Not for photos - use dithering instead for photographic images.
Select a dithering algorithm to see details